Archive:Equipment/VerticalBandsaw - Revision history

Asoko: Asoko moved page Equipment/VerticalBandsaw to Archive:Equipment/VerticalBandsaw without leaving a redirect

2013-05-08T20:26:07Z

Asoko moved page Equipment/VerticalBandsaw to Archive:Equipment/VerticalBandsaw without leaving a redirect

← Older revision

Revision as of 20:26, 8 May 2013

Ajp: update, this is an ex-bandsaw, it has joined the choir invisible

2012-02-26T05:53:38Z

update, this is an ex-bandsaw, it has joined the choir invisible

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:53, 26 February 2012
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	==About==		==About==
	[[File:Nu-tool_HBS10_vertical_bandsaw_lorez.JPG\|right\|Vertical bandsaw]]		[[File:Nu-tool_HBS10_vertical_bandsaw_lorez.JPG\|right\|Vertical bandsaw]]
	There is now a vertical bandsaw in the space.		There <del>is now</del> was a vertical bandsaw in the space.

			This bandsaw has been declared dead and scrapped due to the motor failing. Artag only paid thirty quid for it (thanks dude!).
			It was a pile of finicky, unreliable, badly made crap and we are glad to be rid of it!
			Overall it was a learning experiance.

	The is the machine which is green on one side and black on the other.		The is the machine which is green on one side and black on the other.

Ajp: update

2012-01-05T04:59:14Z

update

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:59, 5 January 2012
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	==Status==		==Status==

	This bandsaw is ~~working~~.		This bandsaw was knackered last time I looked. The starter capacitor on the motor is short circuit. It also has a somewhat unsuitable blade installed (not an extra flexible type) and was chewing the upper blade bearing. No matter how many warning signs are plastered on every side of it people just won't read before fiddling with the adjustments. Artag is going to try another capacitor at some point.

	Working as of 7th june 2011. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.		Working as of 7th june 2011. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.

Ajp: update on type of blade

2011-06-08T07:48:47Z

update on type of blade

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:48, 8 June 2011
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	As best as I ~~can~~ measure it the blade is 50 and one eighth of an inch (127.4cm) in circumference. It is 3/8 of a inch wide (9mm) to the points of the teeth. Seems to be an unusually small size.		Order 50inch circumference, 3/8" wide, flexback (or similar extra flexible material) blades.
	~~A custom~~ made blade ~~of 50" length and 3/8 width seems ok so far~~. There seems to be three standard blade widths. I think a blade other than 3/8" wide is probably a bad idea. [[User:Ajp\|Ajp]]		As best as I could measure it the original blade was 50 and one eighth of an inch (127.4cm) in circumference. It is 3/8 of a inch wide (9mm) to the points of the teeth. Seems to be an unusually small size. It appears that blades made of extra flexible metal intended for small hobbiest bandsaws are better for this machine. Standard bandsaw blade material is not a good match for the small radius pulleys adn HSS blades are no good at all. There seems to be three standard blade widths. I think a blade other than 3/8" wide is probably a bad idea. [[User:Ajp\|Ajp]]

	Notes on alignment and fitting a new blade.		Notes on alignment and fitting a new blade.

Ajp: currently working

2011-06-08T06:43:00Z

currently working

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:43, 8 June 2011
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	This bandsaw is working.		This bandsaw is working.
	~~Phil and AJP think it is in good adjustment~~ as of ~~1st april~~ 2011. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.		Working as of 7th june 2011. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.

	The current blade is usable but not brilliant for the 5mm wood sheet that is used in the laser cutter. You have to cut really slowly or the blade may bind up. It's not good for wood any bigger than that. A label saying "warning 5mm thick sheet max" would be good with the current blade--AJP		The current blade is usable but not brilliant for the 5mm wood sheet that is used in the laser cutter. You have to cut really slowly or the blade may bind up. It's not good for wood any bigger than that. A label saying "warning 5mm thick sheet max" would be good with the current blade--AJP

Ajp: another typo

2011-04-03T15:35:53Z

another typo

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:35, 3 April 2011
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	#Do not touch the innards unless it is unplugged.		#Do not touch the innards unless it is unplugged.
	#Get someone who ~~with~~ machine tool experience to help, do not proceed otherwise.		#Get someone who has machine tool experience to help, do not proceed otherwise.
	#'''Do not power on unless you can carefully check nothing is fouling by rotating the drive pulley by hand.''' Mark it out of order and leave it if you can't make it run freely.		#'''Do not power on unless you can carefully check nothing is fouling by rotating the drive pulley by hand.''' Mark it out of order and leave it if you can't make it run freely.
	#Have a clear, well lit work area so you don't loose any of the small parts.		#Have a clear, well lit work area so you don't loose any of the small parts.

Ajp: picture

2011-04-03T15:34:29Z

picture

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:34, 3 April 2011
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	==About==		==About==
			[[File:Nu-tool_HBS10_vertical_bandsaw_lorez.JPG\|right\|Vertical bandsaw]]
	There is now a vertical bandsaw in the space.		There is now a vertical bandsaw in the space.

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	'''This machine is dangerous''' .. even more dangerous than the other machines. And they're not pussycats - they can all kill you, some more quickly than others. This particular one likes to cut bits off you in a blink, then leave you to bleed to death but if sufficiently abused it can come up with more creative methods.		'''This machine is dangerous''' .. even more dangerous than the other machines. And they're not pussycats - they can all kill you, some more quickly than others. This particular one likes to cut bits off you in a blink, then leave you to bleed to death but if sufficiently abused it can come up with more creative methods.

			It's a nu-tool HBS10 10" bandsaw. Probably a Chinese import rebadged by Nutool.

	==Status==		==Status==
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	#Put allen key back in box.		#Put allen key back in box.
	#Try cutting suitable materials.		#Try cutting suitable materials.
			#Update warning labels
	#Count fingers.		#Count fingers.

	(maybe this procedure should be a separate page)		(maybe this procedure should be a separate page)

Ajp: minor editing

2011-04-03T15:09:27Z

minor editing

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:09, 3 April 2011
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	This bandsaw is working.		This bandsaw is working.
	Phil and AJP think it is in good adjustment ~~at the moment~~. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the		Phil and AJP think it is in good adjustment as of 1st april 2011. It makes a click every time the weld in the blade passes through the business end without a workpiece pressed against the saw, it's just the blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.
	blade touching the upper bearing, we don't think the blade is touching anything it should not.

	The current blade is usable but not brilliant for the 5mm wood sheet that is used in the laser cutter. You have to cut really slowly or the blade may bind up. It's not good for wood any bigger than that. A label saying "warning 5mm thick sheet max" would be good with the current blade--AJP		The current blade is usable but not brilliant for the 5mm wood sheet that is used in the laser cutter. You have to cut really slowly or the blade may bind up. It's not good for wood any bigger than that. A label saying "warning 5mm thick sheet max" would be good with the current blade--AJP
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	It's a bit of a fiddly job to get it running smoothly in the guides so don't attempt to change it unless you're prepared to spend a long time messing. If you feel you must, and it ends up working less well than when you started, label it and mention it on the mailing list. Better to admit you need more practice than wreck it for the next person.		It's a bit of a fiddly job to get it running smoothly in the guides so don't attempt to change it unless you're prepared to spend a long time messing. Fully read procedure below and instruction leaflet. If you feel you must, and it ends up working less well than when you started, label it and mention it on the mailing list. Better to admit you need more practice than wreck it for the next person.


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	As best as I can measure it the blade is 50 and one eighth of an inch (127.4cm) in circumference. It is 3/8 of a inch wide (9mm) to the points of the teeth. Seems to be an unusually small size.		As best as I can measure it the blade is 50 and one eighth of an inch (127.4cm) in circumference. It is 3/8 of a inch wide (9mm) to the points of the teeth. Seems to be an unusually small size.
	A custom made blade of 50" length and 3/8 width seems ok so far. There seems to be three standard blade widths, 3/~~8th~~ is ~~the smallest. Don't try to use~~ a ~~wider blade~~. [[User:Ajp\|Ajp]]		A custom made blade of 50" length and 3/8 width seems ok so far. There seems to be three standard blade widths. I think a blade other than 3/8" wide is probably a bad idea. [[User:Ajp\|Ajp]]

	Notes on alignment and fitting a new blade.		Notes on alignment and fitting a new blade.
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	#Do not touch the innards unless it is unplugged.		#Do not touch the innards unless it is unplugged.
	#Get someone who with machine tool experience to help, do not proceed otherwise.		#Get someone who with machine tool experience to help, do not proceed otherwise.
	#Do not power on unless you can carefully check nothing is fouling by rotating the drive pulley by hand.		#'''Do not power on unless you can carefully check nothing is fouling by rotating the drive pulley by hand.''' Mark it out of order and leave it if you can't make it run freely.
	#Have a clear, well lit work area so you don't loose any of the small parts.		#Have a clear, well lit work area so you don't loose any of the small parts.
			#Remove cover, put thumbscrews they won't get lost
			#Use a large flathead screwdriver to check the upper pulley bearing is screwed down tight
	#Remove the wing-nut, washer and bolt on the edge of the tray(the flat bit you put the work piece on).		#Remove the wing-nut, washer and bolt on the edge of the tray(the flat bit you put the work piece on).
	#Remove silver guard(loosen two black screws) then the whole tray.		#Remove silver guard(loosen two black screws) then the whole tray.
	#Remove the upper ~~and~~ lower ~~guides~~.		#Remove the upper guide
			#Remove the lower guide by removing the single screw, not the two vertical position screw.
	#Slacken the middle side knob.		#Slacken the middle side knob.
	#Undo the top tensioner knob until you can easily get the blade over the top pulley wheel.		#Undo the top tensioner knob until you can easily get the blade over the top pulley wheel.

81.105.17.61: /* Status */

2011-04-02T14:37:32Z

Status

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:37, 2 April 2011
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	There is a 14tpi (teeth per inch) HSS blade and a 10tpi carbon steel blade in brown cardboard cartons in the corner of the room behind the powertool shelves.		There is a 14tpi (teeth per inch) HSS blade and a 10tpi carbon steel blade in brown cardboard cartons in the corner of the room behind the powertool shelves.

	I'd like to put the 14tpi blade in and see if it's a decent compromise for PCB's, lasercutter ply and small blocks of wood. --Ajp		I'd like to put the 14tpi blade in and see if it's a decent compromise for PCB's, lasercutter ply and small blocks of wood. --Ajp<br>Go for it --Artag.

	==How to use==		==How to use==

Ajp: cool someone fixed the formatting, now some typo fixes

2011-04-02T11:47:41Z

cool someone fixed the formatting, now some typo fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:47, 2 April 2011
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	===Blade Installation Procedure===		===Blade Installation Procedure===

	Phil and I set it up with a new blade.		Phil and I set it up with a new blade (ok Phil took charge of the tricky bits).
	The procedure we used was more or less as follows.		The procedure we used was more or less as follows.

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	#Slacken the middle side knob.		#Slacken the middle side knob.
	#Undo the top tensioner knob until you can easily get the blade over the top pulley wheel.		#Undo the top tensioner knob until you can easily get the blade over the top pulley wheel.
	#Put the blade in.		#Put the blade in. Flat side on right, teeth on the left looking at the front of the machine.
	#Get the blade central on the pulleys.		#Get the blade central on the pulleys.
	#Tighten top knob so the blade has enough tension not to foul inside the machine.		#Tighten top knob so the blade has enough tension not to foul inside the machine.
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	#Rotate by hand, tighten middle knob a little if necessary.		#Rotate by hand, tighten middle knob a little if necessary.
	#If really sure, plug in, be ready to switch off quickly.		#If really sure, plug in, be ready to switch off quickly.
	#Run the machine watching the blade position on the top pulley and where it enters the machine at the bottom. Switch off '''IMMEDIATELY''' if it blade is moving towards the edge of the pulley or fouling elsewhere. Listen and watch closely.		#Run the machine watching the blade position on the top pulley and where it enters the machine at the bottom. Switch off '''IMMEDIATELY''' if the blade is moving towards the edge of the pulley or fouling elsewhere. Listen and watch closely.
	#Using the allen key, adjust the grub screw and the middle very gingerly so the blade runs in the middle of the pulleys. They interact somewhat.		#Using the allen key, adjust the grub screw and the middle knob very gingerly so the blade runs in the middle of the pulleys. They interact somewhat.
	#The middle knob should be fairly tight but probably not screwed in a tight as it can go. The middle knob should NOT be loose.		#The middle knob should be fairly tight but probably not screwed in a tight as it can go. The middle knob should NOT be loose.
	#Check top knob is tight, about as tight as you can turn it with one hand. When confident blade is running OK on pulleys and is ~~suitable~~ tensioned unplug machine.		#Check top knob is tight, about as tight as you can turn it with one hand. When confident blade is running OK on pulleys and is suitably tensioned unplug machine.
	#Attach lower runner (leave the little black guard for now). Adjust left/right position so back of the blade is a micron off the bearing. Don't mess with the vertical position.		#Attach lower runner (leave the little black guard for now). Adjust left/right position so back of the blade is a micron off the bearing. Don't mess with the vertical position.
	#Adjust the metal pegs that the blade runs between so it is a close as possible but has a tiny gap 22)either side.		#Adjust the metal pegs that the blade runs between so it is a close as possible but has a tiny gap )either side.
	#Attach black guard and fiddle to get the runner right again.		#Attach black guard and fiddle to get the runner right again.
	#Attach upper runner. Adjust the metal pegs.		#Attach upper runner. Adjust the metal pegs.