|Status||Out of order|
|Location||Basement, CNC area|
The bandsaw is working and has a 10 TPI blade fitted. It is set to the lowest speed. Update 2013-06-03: I couldn't see a blade fitted.
It was not working previously because the drive pulley had come loose on its shaft. This caused the pulley to move away from parallel to the motor pulley, causing the whole machine to jam up. This is likely to be because the key for the pulley was not in place (it was on the window frame behind the saw). I have replaced it.
- Chester UK H80 - probably.
Mind your fingers!
If in doubt then please ask
- First familiarise yourself with the various guides, clamps, and markers on the saw - these will help you make consistent and beautiful cuts.
- Select the correct blade for the material and use lubrication if needed.
- Unless you care cutting large pieces, keep the 'mouth' of the saw as narrow as possible by moving the guide wheels closer together.
- Select the correct speed for the material you wish to cut - failure to do so will result in a slipping blade.
- DO NOT apply pressure to the saw when cutting - this really isn't needed and may damage the blade.
- DO support the weight of the saw to control the speed at which if cuts through your material - the weight of the saw alone may induce a cut that is faster than desired.
Changing the blade
Always observe the safety precautions described below.
Tools required: 5mm allen key, gloves, safety glasses
- Disconnect the saw from the mains.
- Wear gloves and eye protection at all times - this includes anyone helping or watching.
- If the new blade is coiled:
- Hold blade tightly with one hand so that it will not uncoil
- Remove zip ties with other hand
- Hold blade at a distance with both hands and let it uncoil in a controlled manner - do not do this in a confined space.
- Remove 3 hex bolts that hold the blade cover in place - a 4th bolt near to the pivot and attached to a chain does not need to be removed.
- Loosen the current blade by turning the large handle at the front end of the saw.
- With gloves - slide the existing blade off of the drive wheels
- If the old blade is broken it may be possible to repair it so please speak to Elliot.
- Please use some tape to note the TPI of the blade and hang it on the wall.
- Slide the new blade onto the drive wheels - this can be tricky so resist the temptation to force the blade:
- Start by seating the blade on one of the drive wheels
- Twist the blade slightly so that it can pass through the smaller guide wheels on either side of the 'mouth' of the saw.
- Push the blade onto the remaining drive wheel.
- Finally check that the blade is located correctly:
- The front of the blade - (with the teeth) should face down.
- The back of the blade should run up against the guide/lip on both of the drive wheels
- The full width of the blade should run in between the small metal guide wheels
- The back of the blade should be be seated on another set of small metal guide wheels that are perpendicular to the others - either side of the 'mouth'.
- At first, tighten the blade enough to keep it in position.
- Reattach the cover with the 3 hex bolts
- Tighten the blade further if required - the blade should have a few millimeters give - if not a little more.
- Using some tape, make a note on the machine of the current blade TPI.
- From a safe position, reconnect the power and activate the saw to verify that it is running correctly.
Changing the speed
Tools required: 5mm allen key, 14mm spanner
- Disconnect saw from the mains.
- Remove drive belt cover - held in place with one hex bolt.
- Loosen the two retaining nuts on motor mounting plate.
- Gradually loosen the mounting plate 'thumb-screw' - you should see the pulley wheels move together and the belt loosen.
- With the belt sufficiently slack - move drive belt to desired pulley wheel set.
- Use the motor mount thumb-screw to shift the motor back and thus tighten the belt.
- You want the belt to be tight enough that it won't come off of the pulley wheels - but not ridiculously tight. There should be a couple of millimetres give in the belt.
- Tighten the motor mount nuts and ease off the thumb-screw.
- Replace cover.
Selecting the correct blade
We currently have: 1 x 6tpi, 2 x 10tpi and 2 x 14tpi blades.
From the helpful guy at TuffSaws:
For general purpose cutting then 10tpi is the most popular tooth pitch for aluminium and brass, 14tpi for plastic (and metal) and 6tpi for wood. Aluminium can be a pain to cut though and ideally some cutting fluid should be used (paraffin is a good cheap cutting fluid for aluminium). It can also clog up the teeth on the blade so if you are cutting thick aluminium or brass, then a 6tpi blade will be better.
Most plastic will be ok with a 14tpi blade, but again depending on the thickness being cut, 10 or even 6tpi will be required. For Wood, 6tpi is ok for most wood cutting (up to around 3 – 4 inches) but if you are cutting thick wood then a 4tpi will be better. If you are only cutting thin pieces of wood then 10 & 14tpi will also cut wood.
If you go for a selection of 6, 10 and 14tpi then you will be able to cut most things – it really does depend on the thickness being cut as to which will be the best blade for the job though as most of the tooth pitches will cope with a variety of materials.
Selecting the correct speed
- Hard metals will require the slowest speed otherwise blade slippage will result.
- Purchasing: Blades have been purchased from TuffSaws - they will re-weld - free of charge - any of their blades that have broken at the weld point.
- Size: 52" (1300mm) x ½"