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Revision as of 21:30, 25 June 2014 by Akki14 (talk | contribs) (trying to tidy it up and correct links and ugh...)
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Scroll saw picture.jpg
Model Unknown
Sub-category Woodworking
Status Good working order
Consumables Unknown
Accessories Unknown
Training requirement no
Training link Unknown
ACnode no
Owner Unknown
Origin Unknown
Location Basement, workshop

This is a small vibration saw that has been loaned to the hackspace by Charles Seber. He's an excellent artist, woodworker and grower. [1]

I've laser-cut a few things for him, and when he heard that the laser was out of action, he loaned us this saw. Please look after it.


Scrollsaw is presently working. I recently had to fashion a new cover for the side after the old one became lost. Fahadsadah (talk) 17:05, 11 December 2012 (UTC)

It currently has a 20 teeth per inch blade fitted, which should be ok for anything you may sensibly want to cut with it.

Spare blades can be found in the sawblades drawer of the filing cabinet in the workshop. Currently there are two packs of 20tpi blades and a pack of 15tpi blades. Six blades per pack. Olson blades purchased from

New plate fitted by Mikechislett (16/6/13) - 2mm acrylic from the spare plastics pile. The old one was cut badly, and barely existed in the centre!


NUTOOL SS16-4 Scroll SAW Serial #: 008445

Scroll saw model number.jpg Scroll saw serial number.jpg

Looks like 5inch(127mm) blades fit. The current configuration needs pinned blades. In theory non-pinned blades could be used with a different attachment, we don't seem to have it, so make sure you buy blades with pins not "plain end"


Mind your fingers!

Like the bandsaw, you can adjust the tension of the sawblade by tightening/loosening the handscrew at the back of the machine.

Do not overtighten it! This will cause the blade to snap!

You can check the tension with the power to the machine OFF by "pinging" the blade... pluck it with your finger nail and listen. It should be a fairly high, sharp, clear note. If it's a bit "thud" sounding, tighten the blade with the handscrew at the back, plucking the blade as you go so you can get an ear for a well tensioned blade.


If in doubt then please ask

Please only cut thin/small pieces of wood or similar soft materials.

Acrylic will cut in this saw very effectively, but it makes a lot of mess. When cutting acrylic/plastic, you should go slowly - the blade will heat up quickly and cause the material to melt rather than cut if forced into the blade too hard or fast.

You can adjust the cutting angle of the saw by up to 45degrees, by using the handscrew on the front of the machine. This can make very effective bevels and corner joints.

Please clean the saw after you have used it.

Changing the blade

Always observe the safety precautions described below.

Tools required: 5mm allen key, gloves, safety glasses

  1. Disconnect the saw from the mains.
  2. Wear gloves and eye protection at all times - this includes anyone helping or watching.
  3. Loosen the handscrew at the back of the saw.
  4. Remove the old blade.
  5. Make sure the clamp at the top is aligned correctly.
  6. Insert the sawblade with the cutting edge of the teeth facing downwards.
  7. Insert the sawblade pins in the bottom clamp.
  8. Gently stretch the sawblade until the pins slip into the top clamp.
  9. Tighten the handscrew to put tension on the blade.
  10. Using some tape, make a note on the machine of the current blade TPI.
  11. From a safe position, reconnect the power and activate the saw to verify that it is running correctly.



  • Purchasing:

Captcha's not working to make this a proper link but the current blades are from