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Laser Cutter/Instructions: Difference between revisions
From London Hackspace Wiki
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→Engraving Hints, Tips, and References: Fixed URLs
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* '''Note''' if something hasn't cut/engraved to the complete depth (or you just want to run it again) it is possible to select which layers are 'output' by scrolling to the right in the layers box, this is very useful for an extra layer of engraving or to confirm a full cut. DON'T move the sheet before doing this. | * '''Note''' if something hasn't cut/engraved to the complete depth (or you just want to run it again) it is possible to select which layers are 'output' by scrolling to the right in the layers box, this is very useful for an extra layer of engraving or to confirm a full cut. DON'T move the sheet before doing this. | ||
=== Engraving Hints, Tips, and References === | === Engraving Hints, Tips, and References === | ||
* Images will work best if [http://diylaser.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/laser-engraving-and-dpi-scan-gap.html | * Images will work best if [http://diylaser.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/laser-engraving-and-dpi-scan-gap.html DPI is matched to the Scan Gap] | ||
* One way to prepare images is to reduce the image to black and white [http://blog.aaronbot3000.com/2013/05/a-guide-to-better-dithering-on-laser.html | * One way to prepare images is to reduce the image to black and white [http://blog.aaronbot3000.com/2013/05/a-guide-to-better-dithering-on-laser.html using dithering]. | ||
* For wood, etching makes things darker, but for acrylic, etching makes things lighter. | * For wood, etching makes things darker, but for acrylic, etching makes things lighter. | ||
* Alternately, something like [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/stipplegen2/ | * Alternately, something like [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/stipplegen2/ StippleGen 2] can be used to produce a vector based interpretation of an image, that can be used with a low powered cut. This should be produced much faster than an engraving. | ||
==Uploading your data file== | ==Uploading your data file== | ||
