Faceplant

Things you shouldn't do. Especially twice

If you see someone misusing tools, appliances or small children apparently unaware of how stupid they're being, please tell them. And write it up here, at the top where new entries will be read, in the hope that someone else will learn, too. No need for names (unless, of course, you want to).

Overcritical

Folks, while all the below is very useful and all that, can we please work to avoid a culture of criticism? It's the reason I've not been to the space for a few months now. I found it disheartening to get mutually contradictory 'you must do it like that' / 'you mustn't do it like that' instructions from different people. Sure, if you know what you're talking about and it's a safety or equipment-damage issue then go right ahead, but it's really not helpful to give your guesses as must-follow instructions.

Equally, the flip side of "don't moan, just fix it" is not throwing a strop if people don't fix it in the way that you would have done it. That hasn't happened to me, but I've seen it happen to others.

We're all newbies in one area or another; it's not an "I know more than you do" competition.

[Response : Apologies if anything below is unfair or elitist. My intention is that people should have enough doubts in their perfection to ASK, but not enough to put them off doing stuff. Please modify anything you feel is unfair, unhelpful, or contradicts advice given elsewhere. Or bring it up on the discussion page. --Artag 23:54, 16 March 2011 (UTC)]

Mill Vice

Is not a consumable, it's part of the tool. Please don't drill into either the jaws or the base. You can avoid this in a number of ways :

• Be careful. Don't overhang the jaws, place your work at the top, and the bit will go nowhere near the vice.
• Place a piece of scrap wood below the work, so that the drill enters that when it passes through.
• Set the depth stop so the bit can't reach the vice. This is inadequate if the vice metalwork is directly below the work as a drill bit has to come through the work to complete the hole. So use care or scrap wood as well.

Lest you think that damage to a vice is just inevitable .. it's not. The vice we have isn't enormously expensive but a top quality industrial vice is, very. It's a precision instrument that's essential for accurate work. Treat ours like it cost £1700 too - it's the right way to keep tools in good condition.

Grinding wheel

Is for steel. Aluminium, plastics, wood will clog the surface of the wheel very quickly and stop it cutting, it can also overheat and explode when used on incorrect materials. Use a file for these materials - they're soft enough to cut easily.

MakerBot

Is an expensive, delicate piece of equipment - get training for it!

Drill Bits

There are various types of drill bit depending on what it is you want to cut a hole in: masonry, wood or metal. The 'Space has examples of all three. In general metal drill bits are a simple spiral and often labeled HSS (this is often engraved, along with a diameter on the barral of the bit, don't always trust the box). Masonry bits will have a blunt 'spade' on the tip. Wood bits tend to have a small point at the tip and spurs, they can also be used for plastics.

In general use the right type of drill bit. If a bit is carbon steel it is probably too brittle for metal.

More info can be found here: [[1]] Also see the speed guide here: [[2]] which has good schematics of the drill bit types

Cutting Speed/Teeth sizes

The URLs below are very useful references:

1. http://www.raygirling.com/dpspeed.htm
2. http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/info/drillSpeedChart.pdf

but do keep in mind that some of the numbers are relatively high - a lot of our (semi pro) tools do not quite have the power (or are rigid enough) to hit that (nor do we have sludge cooling). So aim a bit lower and go slower.

Bandsaw

There are various sorts of saw blades for the bandsaw intended for wood or metal. Using the wrong kind of blade will, if you're lucky, just break the bandsaw. If not then, well, all kinds of bad things can happen when a fast rotating sharp edged band of metal snaps under stress. For the same reason - be sure to use the adjustments on the guiders. A simple rule is to check the blade against the kind of straight saw you'd use on your chosen material. If it looks like a hacksaw blade, it's for metal (maybe check against a tenon saw as some of the hacksaws may have wood blades). If it looks like a woodsaw blade, it's for (normal) wood. (Verify what to use when using exotic/harder types of wood). Changing the blade on the bandsaw is possible, but should only be done by someone who has the training.

Laser cooler

Don't run the laser with the lid off the cooler and a fan blowing on it. Sure, it will increase the cooling rate. It will also blow dust & muck into the system and it's supposed to be distilled water. BTW, the dead bee was probably there already.

Servers

Servers in the space (which include Doorbot, Babbage and the router) are shared. Do not restart them because you want to do a dist-upgrade or because it's running at high load. A large number of people use Babbage as an IRC bouncer and for playing with code, so you'll be killing their sessions. Doorbot and the router are sensitive and important to every member, so you should have a very good reason to touch them.

Soldering

You don't need to have the soldering iron in the solder station at full heat, it will melt the plastic bits on components, 270ish is good for leaded solder, 300 for unleaded.

Mill

Please put some wood under whatever you are drilling, don't drill down into the bed of the vice!

Network

Please don't go over the top when torrenting (or other p2p service) in the space, we have limited upload, reduce your upload bandwidth to e.g. 50Kbit.

Electronics

It's not simply good enough to read the datasheet carefully, you also have to be reading the *right* datasheet carefully.

Etch Tanks

Today I lost a pcb in the bubble etch tank and tried to dredge it out by hand. It doesnt hurt at the time but the next time you wash your hands it will hurt LIKE HELL. Wash your hands after using the chemicals, maybe even wear latex gloves. Don't be a pillock, that's my job - alecjw

Soldering

480 degrees isnt nescassary, even for lead free solder. 350 should do for 60/40