Project:Pedestrian Gate: Difference between revisions

Project:Pedestrian Gate (view source)

Revision as of 17:26, 24 April 2016

1,681 bytes removed , 24 April 2016

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Undo revision 49532 by ChristianJ (talk)

ChristianJ

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 * quicker entry
 * better control on entering people (tail-gaters, padlock not properly closed, code passed on to non-members; relevant esp. in summer time when shutters are open often) ("code passed on" would mean solution (a) under "pre-7" below is beneficial)
-=== Variants ===
-(a) just replace padlock with new locking solution (no new gate)
-(b) leave padlock in place, but build new pedestrian gate into the fence.
-(c) replace padlock with new locking solution, later build new pedestrian gate into the fence.
-Option (c) is not very interesting since the only benefit it will offer over (a) will be a somewhat easier to open door by pedestrians.
 == Steps ==
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 === Step pre-7: Decision on which gate solution to chose ===
-The choice of variant (see Variants above) influences the security and fire safety requirements:
+There are two solutions, (a) replace padlock with new locking solution; (b) leave padlock in place, but build new pedestrian gate into the fence.
-With variant (b) the pedestrian gate doesn't need to be very reliable, and doesn't need to be fail open in case of fire (true?, do people still remember the code), since the padlock can serve as a fallback. In case (a) the solution needs to be very reliable, and be usable in case of fire (fail open, or safely (mechanically?) openable from the inside).
+In case (b) the pedestrian gate doesn't need to be very reliable, and doesn't need to be fail open in case of fire (true?, do people still remember the code), since the padlock can serve as a fallback. In case (a) the solution needs to be very reliable, and be usable in case of fire (fail open, or mechanically openable from the inside).
 One way might be to use a fail-safe lock (stays closed if power fails) but have a local battery backup for fire safety / to be able to reliably leave the space. Also possibly the yard is big enough to be able to stay far enough from a burning building to be safe? Will there be a fire safety inspection, and could we ask them for an answer beforehand?
-Another idea is to order a lock with a physical key based fallback, and make the key reachable from within the yard, reachable in case of fire (perhaps in a box protected with glass and alarm?)
-DSSlocksmiths <ytube@discreetsecuritysolutions.com>: "Buy a Viro gate lock. Takes a 12V pulse to unlock. You can set it so it takes a single pulse and stays unlocked until reclosed, or set it to what is effectively "power to open" on a timer for 5 seconds. There's a euro cylinder option so you could fit a thumbturn for escape, or add a key on the outside or whatever."
 === Step 7: Run power and data to new gate position ===
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 Lock and flood light might need more power (together) than power-over-Ethernet can provide, hence a separate power cable may be needed in any case.
-(Henry Best <henrybest46@gmail.com>: "There's a clear(ish) flexible plastic tube that runs from a window behind the laser cutter to nearly the back fence. It doesn't appear to be in use for anything. Maybe we could run our wiring inside that.")
 === Step 8: Install weatherproof card reader and automatic lock ===
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 How to secure AC-node and its connection to the lock.
-DSSlocksmiths <ytube@discreetsecuritysolutions.com>: "Supply power via a regular 4 core alarm cable. Figure out the rough voltage drop if you need to. Increase the supply end voltage until you get about 12V at the gate. Run a 6 core if you want an alarm for the cable being cut. Trivially done with a relay and a buzzer/light so it fits when cut."
-sci@sci-fi-fox.com: "My only concern would be ensuring the gate is securely closed again after use. I would imagine there are sensors designed to detect this?"
 === Step 8b: flood light ===