Bandsaw (iTech): Difference between revisions

← Older edit

Bandsaw (iTech) (view source)

Revision as of 07:27, 24 September 2024

3,214 bytes added , 24 September

Video Link Added

Toby.m

Bureaucrats, Administrators

595

edits

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 |category=Equipment
 |subcat=Woodworking
-|status=Good working order
+|status=Awaiting EX2 Setup
 |reqtraining=yes
 |acnode=yes
@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 |origin=Purchased for Space
 |location=Wood shop
-|maintainers=[[User:Deanforbes|Dean]], [[User:Aidas|Aidas]]
+|maintainers=Wood shop team
 }}
 A large bandsaw for making straight or gently curved cuts in wood or plastic materials
@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 * Table Size 578 x 420 mm
 * C TYPE BREAKER REQUIRED
+===Maintenance and Cleaning Instruction===
+Ensure all the internal mechanics are cleaned once a month using the brush and the vacuum cleaner. If you are not sure how to do it ask the team.
+{{:Risk Assessment/ Bandsaws}}
+= Induction Script =
+The first stage of any induction is to read and familiarise with the Risk Assessment and PPE requirements
+===What is a BandSaw For===
+Cutting wood and plastic
+* Straight cuts in thick material (within limits, generally 6"/150mm without checking)
+* Stopped cuts eg tenons
+* Small material you can't take near the mitre or table saws
+* Gentle curves
+* Generally, safer than circular blades (but not always 'safe')
+Alternatives:
+* Mitre saw better for straight cuts on strip
+* Table saw better for straight rip cuts, where thickness allows
+* Mini bandsaw and/ or scroll saw for tighter curves
+===Parts of the Saw===
+Point Out:
+* The blade
+* Inside the cabinet, the wheels
+* The wheel tension adjustment
+* The top and bottom guides
+* The guide height adjuster
+* The table
+* The fence
+* The fence rail adjustment
+* The table bevel adjustment
+* The on/off switch
+===Types of Blade===
+'Level 1' membership from this induction does not cover changing blades and setting guides, that's a 'level 2' task. Once you're familiar with running a bandsaw please talk to us about it, the more people we have who can do that the better
+* LHS default is a 3/8" 6TPI, a good all-rounder. If you do swap out, always put this one back in
+* We have a 1/4" which is great for tight curves on thick material (use mini bandsaw for tight curves on thinner stuff)
+* We have some thicker ones for deep resawing, which require very careful setup
+===How to Check the Blade Tension===
+Open bottom cabinet, bend it between the guide and wheel. All members should try this by hand just to get a 'feel' for what they're looking for
+===How to Check the Guides===
+Basically,
+* All rollers almost touching, but ideally not quite
+* Teeth just sticking out of the side rollers, nothing pinched
+Good source of info is this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU]
+If it's not right, report to maintainers and we'll sort it
+===Straight Freehand Cutting===
+# Set guides to the correct height, just clearing
+# Mark a line on the work
+# Turn on not touching the work, allow to reach full speed
+# Gently start cutting
+# Push through. Be mindful of hand position, ideally never parallel or directly in front of the blade, push sticks available
+# If stop-cutting, switch off before backing out
+# Allow to fully stop before collecting workpiece
+===Straight Cutting with the Fence===
+Introduce the concept of drift. Fence will intentionally never be exactly 90° to the table (exact opposite of table saw)
+Fence can be rotated to different positions depending on need
+# Position fence as needed
+# Procedure follows freehand cut
+===Curve Cutting===
+# Get fence as much out of the way as possible
+# Follow procedure for freehand straight cut
+# Listen carefully to know when it's not happy
+===After Use===
+# Always Sweep down the saw and the surrounding bench
+# For now, always hoover inside the bottom box.
+# Hoover inside the top box once a month or so. Once there is dust extraction the same will apply to the lower box.