Project:PCB Making/Cupric chloride etchant: Difference between revisions

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Ferric Chloride is convenient for small projects, but it is used up and disposal is a pain. An alternative is an etchant that can be regenerated by adding HCl and bubbling air through it.
Note : see '''[[Pcb]]''' for other references


Ferric Chloride is convenient for small projects, but it is used up by the etching process and disposal is a pain. An alternative is an etchant that can be regenerated by adding HCl and bubbling air through it.
*[http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/CuCl2.htm Copy of ] http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html - Etching with Air Regenerated Acid Cupric Chloride
*[[File:CuCl.pdf]] another copy, local pdf
*[http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html CuCl etching]
*[http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html CuCl etching]
*[http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html Etching with Air Regenerated Acid Cupric Chloride]
*[http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ Yahoo - Homebrew PCBs]
*[http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ Yahoo - Homebrew PCBs]
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/ A better etching solution (Instructables)]
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/ A better etching solution (Instructables)]


I understand from some sources that adding HCl to Ferric Chloride will also regenerate it and eventually the etchant changes to CuCl as above. I don't know how carefully that procedure needs to be managed, or whether it's better to start directly with the CuCl bath.


I've set up a bath using this system and made the first pcb. Results are quite encouraging - I kept it at the low end of possible concentrations and ran it it 35 C (the tank will go to about 50), so fumes are acceptably low. It did a decent etch in 15 minutes. I used developer from Mega, which takes about 1 minute.--[[User:Artag|Artag]] 16:49, 6 September 2010 (UTC)
I've set up a bath at home using this system and made the first pcb. Results are quite encouraging - I kept it at the low end of possible concentrations and ran it it 35 C (the tank will go to about 50), so fumes are acceptably low. It did a decent etch in 15 minutes. I used liquid developer from Mega, which takes about 1 minute.--[[User:Artag|Artag]] 16:49, 6 September 2010 (UTC)
 
* The hackspace tank has now been changed to this system. It was set up using HCl and copper wire, left to disolve for several days. More HCl was added to reach the parameters described in the texts above. It's working well and we have found it occasionbally convenient to accelerate the rejuvenation by adding a litle peroxide.


There is some HCl in the space (I think it may have been donated by Aden) and some NaOH for titration.  I have ordered 500g of Copper II Oxide (CuO) so whe should have most of what we need to get running pretty quickly when the donated tank arrives.  I'll try and get a syringe for the titration from Boots, but I'm not sure how friendly they're likely to be...


* I have plenty of syringes, bought from [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Acuflow?_rdc=1 acuflow]. These work very well for measuring, I will bring some in. Although a flask is best for watching the titration, I have used a glass [http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GRADUATED-SIMAX-MEASURING-CYLINDER-100ml-/200515125077 measuring cylinder] and found it convenient for both measuring the water (diluting the etchant) and mixing in the NaOh. They can be obtained from wine / beer making shops. - artag
* I have plenty of syringes, bought from [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Acuflow?_rdc=1 acuflow]. These work very well for measuring, I will bring some in. Although a flask is best for watching the titration, I have used a glass [http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GRADUATED-SIMAX-MEASURING-CYLINDER-100ml-/200515125077 measuring cylinder] and found it convenient for both measuring the water (diluting the etchant) and mixing in the NaOh. They can be obtained from wine / beer making shops. - artag
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Latest revision as of 18:24, 28 May 2013

Note : see Pcb for other references

Ferric Chloride is convenient for small projects, but it is used up by the etching process and disposal is a pain. An alternative is an etchant that can be regenerated by adding HCl and bubbling air through it.


I've set up a bath at home using this system and made the first pcb. Results are quite encouraging - I kept it at the low end of possible concentrations and ran it it 35 C (the tank will go to about 50), so fumes are acceptably low. It did a decent etch in 15 minutes. I used liquid developer from Mega, which takes about 1 minute.--Artag 16:49, 6 September 2010 (UTC)

  • The hackspace tank has now been changed to this system. It was set up using HCl and copper wire, left to disolve for several days. More HCl was added to reach the parameters described in the texts above. It's working well and we have found it occasionbally convenient to accelerate the rejuvenation by adding a litle peroxide.


  • I have plenty of syringes, bought from acuflow. These work very well for measuring, I will bring some in. Although a flask is best for watching the titration, I have used a glass measuring cylinder and found it convenient for both measuring the water (diluting the etchant) and mixing in the NaOh. They can be obtained from wine / beer making shops. - artag
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