Project:PCB Making: Difference between revisions

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 == Notes ==
-Artwork can be printed straight onto a transparency sheet, on a laser printer. Alternatively high street print shops will do the job.  One run on the laser might not be dark enough, try printing multiple times on the same sheet to lay down more toner.
+=== Artwork ===
-The best medium for printing artwork on a laser is tracing paper as it has much better toner adhsion than transparency film and works fine with just one pass - it needs to be fairly thick, at least 90GSM to avoid crinkling in the fuser. A few years ago I wrote this extensive guide to making good PCBs : www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
+Artwork can be printed straight onto a transparency sheet, on a laser printer. Alternatively high street print shops will do the job.  One run on the laser might not be dark enough, try printing multiple times on the same sheet to lay down more toner, though the register might be lost.
-The board was drilled on the Dremel Workstation.
+The best medium for printing artwork on a laser is tracing paper as it has much better toner adhesion than transparency film and works fine with just one pass - it needs to be fairly thick, at least 90GSM to avoid crinkling in the fuser. A few years ago I wrote this extensive guide to making good PCBs : www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
-Drill bit; 0.7mm (smallest one) on the workstation plastic drill case, chuck is in the silver dremel case. [I couldn't find a suitable drill bit or chuck, or silver dremel case for that matter...]
+=== Drilling ===
+.8mm drill bits work well, anything thicker and the remaining copper might be damaged or in case of double sided boards, lifted on the other side, as the drill goes through the board.
+=== UV exposure ===
 The UV box, etching tubs and all chemicals are currently in the left hand metal cupboard (marked etching stuff) at the far end of the dirty room.
-If anyone in interested in making PCBs and needs a hand, there are now 3 members of the Hackspace etching PCBs in loco - Daniel (dsikar), Solexious and Meurig, all willing to help, I am sure.
+Put the light on a 2 minute time lapse without exposing the board, to warm it up.
+=== Removing remaining photoresist layer ===
+Once the unwanted copper has been etched, there is still photoresist left on the remaining copper. It is practical to expose the board again, thus weakening the photoresist, then repeating the sodium silicate rinse.
 == Tried and Tested Settings ==