Workshop Induction

This is s page to hold information about the workshop induction. This page will be filled with information on how to properly maintain each tool or set of tools . If you know how to use a tool properly then please fill out a paragraph or so on that tool's proper use so it can be taught to others.

Areas

Biohacker's Lab

https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk/view/Group:Biohacking

Main Area

Hand tools

Hammers

We've got a wide variety of hammers and mallets, the important differences being face material and weight. To avoid damaging your work or tools, choose wisely.

• Wooden mallets are good for driving chisels and other cutting tools, as they won't split the handles.
• Rubber mallets won't dent your work, so are good for assembly and disassembly. They may leave a rubber mark, so a piece of waste between the work and striking face isn't a bad bet. Striking sharp edges cuts up the mallet, quickly destroying it.
• Metal faced hammers are good for driving nails and disassembling rough stock. Pick a suitable weight for the job at hand. Away from the flat striking face, there's a variety of backs to choose from. Claws are used for extracting bent nails, rounded faces were traditionally used for rounding off the heads of rivets.
• Hide faced
• Lead
• Club and Sledge

Do not use a hammer or mallet with a loose handle. Rewedging or rehandling will likely be required.

Chisels

Chisels are cutting edge tools: they are not screwdrivers, prybars, paint strippers etc. Chisels should have an edge square to their sides, and this needs to be kept sharp. There are many videos explaining this process (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F5aSs2ureQ [the first 2:20 is all you need]). They're designed to be pushed or driven from the back, and can snap if levered on too hard.

Running into a nail, dropping on to concrete etc. will likely chip the edge, at which point the chisel will need to be reground. This is best done on the grinders in the metal shop.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are used to drive screws: again, they aren't cutting tools, prybars etc. and too much lateral load can snap a screwdriver blade. We've a number of different sized drivers for the various sizes and designs of screw head (including slot, phillips and pozi). Pick a driver that matches the screws you're using, as all of these head designs come in various sizes. A driver that rattles around in the head, or won't bottom because it's too big, will give you a hard time driving the screw, and is liable to chew up the head or the driver itself.

If the head fits and the screw is still giving you a hard time, you may need to make/deepen a pilot hole, lubricate the screw (a dab of washing up liquid on the tip of the screw works well in wood), or reconsider your choice of fastener.

Gauges

Marking gauges consist of a bar with protruding pin, and a block (or fence) that can be moved up and down the bar and locked. Used for scratching a line a set distance from an edge, by running the block along said edge. These are precision marking tools and should be treated gently (no hammers!).

The pin should be straight and sharp. A brush with a file should keep the pin in usable condition.

Dusty Wood Shop

Belt Sander

• The tracking knob works like a steering wheel, clockwise sends the belt to the right, counter-clockwise sends it to the left
• Needs frequent vacuuming as it was meant for metal not wood