Project:UMI RTX Robot arm: Difference between revisions
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[[File:UMI_Robot_Arm1.jpg|thumb|UMI robot arm feeling poorly]] | [[File:UMI_Robot_Arm1.jpg|thumb|UMI robot arm feeling poorly]] | ||
6 DOF robot arm from 1986, | 6 DOF robot arm from 1986, donated by Daithi (he even got the caps that blew!). | ||
== Proposals == | == Proposals == | ||
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== Updates == | == Updates == | ||
=== Update 08/01/2013 === | |||
[[Mentar|Mentar]]: replaced [[Daithi|daithi]]'s cap, as only one was blown. Still no luck, the power supply is making a sparky noise even when no external load is attached to it. The red and green motor LEDs go on and then fade out. Opened the power-supply but there is nothing obviously wrong with it despite some areas of corrosion. Didn't have enough time to take it fully out of the enclosure to check the back of the board. Next time I'm in I'll take the board app-art and test it further possibly re-soldering it. | |||
=== Update 02/10/2012 === | === Update 02/10/2012 === | ||
Revision as of 22:26, 8 January 2013
6 DOF robot arm from 1986, donated by Daithi (he even got the caps that blew!).
Proposals
mentar would love to make a ROS package and an URDF model for the arm. I've compiled ROS on the Pi so can use that to get make a network node pretty easily. Would need to sort out the electronics on the arm. Personally it would be easier for me to just salvage the power electronics and replace with a Pi. But if someone wants to restore the stock electronics then I think you should have a bash first!
Updates
Update 08/01/2013
Mentar: replaced daithi's cap, as only one was blown. Still no luck, the power supply is making a sparky noise even when no external load is attached to it. The red and green motor LEDs go on and then fade out. Opened the power-supply but there is nothing obviously wrong with it despite some areas of corrosion. Didn't have enough time to take it fully out of the enclosure to check the back of the board. Next time I'm in I'll take the board app-art and test it further possibly re-soldering it.
Update 02/10/2012
daithi got the caps, but would like an interested party to try replace them. He's not getting more if the blow again!
Update 27/09/2012
Now that the z-axis works again daithi will try replacing the caps that blew up and see if he can bring the original board back to life
Update 11/09/2012
artag, jasperw and mentar took the arm apart to figure out the problem with the z-axis. Turns out it's not that bad, turns fine. The z-axis motor (24V) wasn't working because of the corrosion layer on the commutator, cleaning the brushes and rotating the motor axle cleaned off some of the corrosion and it works beautifully at 24v
Update 29/08/2012
Tomw and tgreer tried to get this running but the z axis seems to be rusted to f***. The PSU outputs the correct voltages but when trying to put this into "green mode" it buzzes and sticks in red.
Checked fuses and theyre ok.
We forced the z-axis to try and break it out of any rusted stickiness and managed to move it down. We also tried 12-24v across the z axis motor and got no response
One of the fuses then blew which we replaced and promptly blew the 5 tantalum capacitors near the right hand connector on the main board. These will need replacing
note: (artag) tantalum capacitors of this age have a tendency to die by going short-circuit. If the fuse allows it, they will then burn up fairly vigorously. Depnding on which ones died, you might be able to ignore this (once they've burnt open-circuit) but it would be best to replace the lot. There are about 4 1uF 35V, about 8 10uF 35V, and 1 47uF 35V.
Docs
Misc
iBot has one of these in store at Reading Hackspace , it is an RT100 not an RTX, but he thinks they are very similar. He's offered to help with info and also has some more documentation about internals and protocol if needed. Also has some bad C# code he wrote to drive it.
