Difference between revisions of "Project:UMI RTX Robot arm"
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We forced the z-axis to try and break it out of any rusted stickiness and managed to move it down. We also tried 12-24v across the z axis motor and got no response | We forced the z-axis to try and break it out of any rusted stickiness and managed to move it down. We also tried 12-24v across the z axis motor and got no response | ||
| + | One of the fuses then blew which we replaced and promptly blew the 5 tantalum capacitors near the right hand connector on the main board. These will need replacing | ||
| − | + | note: (artag) tantalum capacitors of this age have a tendency to die by going short-circuit. If the fuse allows it, they will then burn up fairly vigorously. Depnding on which ones died, you might be able to ignore this (once they've burnt open-circuit) but it would be best to replace the lot. There are about 4 1uF 35V, about 8 10uF 35V, and 1 47uF 35V. | |
Revision as of 13:30, 12 September 2012
6 DOF robot arm from 1986, Possibly being donated by Daithi.
link dump
Update 11/09/2012
artag, jasperw and mentar took the arm apart to figure out the problem with the z-axis. Turns out it's not that bad, turns fine. The z-axis motor (24V) wasn't working because of the corrosion layer on the commutator, cleaning the brushes and rotating the motor axle cleaned off some of the corrosion and it works beautifully at 24v
Update 29/08/2012
Tomw and tgreer tried to get this running but the z axis seems to be rusted to f***. The PSU outputs the correct voltages but when trying to put this into "green mode" it buzzes and sticks in red.
Checked fuses and theyre ok.
We forced the z-axis to try and break it out of any rusted stickiness and managed to move it down. We also tried 12-24v across the z axis motor and got no response
One of the fuses then blew which we replaced and promptly blew the 5 tantalum capacitors near the right hand connector on the main board. These will need replacing
note: (artag) tantalum capacitors of this age have a tendency to die by going short-circuit. If the fuse allows it, they will then burn up fairly vigorously. Depnding on which ones died, you might be able to ignore this (once they've burnt open-circuit) but it would be best to replace the lot. There are about 4 1uF 35V, about 8 10uF 35V, and 1 47uF 35V.