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Project:UMI RTX Robot arm: Difference between revisions

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[[File:UMI_Robot_Arm1.jpg|thumb|UMI robot arm feeling poorly]]
[[File:UMI_Robot_Arm1.jpg|thumb|UMI robot arm feeling poorly]]
6 DOF robot arm from 1986, donated by Daithi (he even got the caps that blew!).
6 DOF robot arm from 1986, donated by Daithi (he even got the caps that blew!).
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== Updates ==
== Updates ==


=== Update 16/03/2013 ===


[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: After attempting to talk to the arm over the serial using different software that's list on this page I got no response of any kind from the arm. Given the state of the RS232 port on the arm I then made sure that all the relevant pins (only 9 are used) rang through to the board. At this point I'm giving up on the control board. I'll start checking the motors, encoders and endstops with aim to make a new board from scratch. If anyone wants to have a go at restoring the old board feel free! (I'll try to make an in/out replacement)
==== Update 28/05/2013 ====
 
[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: Fixed the elbow joint, hat to drill a jammed screw off. Traced out about half of the wires from the blue cable.
 
==== Update 16/03/2013 ====
 
[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: After attempting to talk to the arm over the serial using different software that's list on this page I got no response of any kind from the arm. Given the state of the RS232 port on the arm I then made sure that all the relevant pins (only 9 are used) rang through to the board. At this point I'm giving up on the control board. I'll start checking the motors and encoders with aim to make a new board from scratch. If anyone wants to have a go at restoring the old board feel free! (I'll try to make an in/out replacement)


=== Update 07/03/2013 ===
==== Update 07/03/2013 ====


[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: Turns out the motor power light didn't go on often due to the fact that the emergency stop contact was rubbish due to the corroded 9-pin D-sub female connector. For the testing phase I've shorted the 2 pins internally, though these would be undone when  the arm is to be used. Next step is to connect it up to the and try the talking to it with the software that tgreer found. I have doubts the rusty serial socket works however, so will probably need more repairing.
[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: Turns out the motor power light didn't go on often due to the fact that the emergency stop contact was rubbish due to the corroded 9-pin D-sub female connector. For the testing phase I've shorted the 2 pins internally, though these would be undone when  the arm is to be used. Next step is to connect it up to the and try the talking to it with the software that tgreer found. I have doubts the rusty serial socket works however, so will probably need more repairing.


=== Update 05/03/2013 ===
==== Update 05/03/2013 ====


[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: after taking the power supply apart with Aaron, we found that the problem was with the actual switch, the contacts on it were somewhat corroded resulting in a bad connection. That has now been fixed and the arm powers up. The motor power LEDs are a finicky, and the green button light doesn't always go on when asked. But it remains stable once it does. Next step would be to open up the manual and try to talk to it!  
[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: after taking the power supply apart with Aaron, we found that the problem was with the actual switch, the contacts on it were somewhat corroded resulting in a bad connection. That has now been fixed and the arm powers up. The motor power LEDs are a finicky, and the green button light doesn't always go on when asked. But it remains stable once it does. Next step would be to open up the manual and try to talk to it!  


=== Update 08/01/2013 ===
==== Update 08/01/2013 ====


[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: replaced [[User:Daithi|daithi]]'s cap, as only one was blown. Still no luck, the power supply is making a sparky noise even when no external load is attached to it. The red and green motor LEDs go on and then fade out. Opened the power-supply but there is nothing obviously wrong with it despite some areas of corrosion. Didn't have enough time to take it fully out of the enclosure to check the back of the board. Next time I'm in I'll take the board app-art and test it further possibly re-soldering it.  
[[User:Mentar|Mentar]]: replaced [[User:Daithi|daithi]]'s cap, as only one was blown. Still no luck, the power supply is making a sparky noise even when no external load is attached to it. The red and green motor LEDs go on and then fade out. Opened the power-supply but there is nothing obviously wrong with it despite some areas of corrosion. Didn't have enough time to take it fully out of the enclosure to check the back of the board. Next time I'm in I'll take the board app-art and test it further possibly re-soldering it.  


=== Update 02/10/2012 ===
==== Update 02/10/2012 ====


[[User:Daithi|daithi]] got the caps, but would like an interested party to try replace them. He's not getting more if the blow again!
[[User:Daithi|daithi]] got the caps, but would like an interested party to try replace them. He's not getting more if the blow again!


=== Update 27/09/2012 ===
==== Update 27/09/2012 ====


Now that the z-axis works again [[User:Daithi|daithi]] will try replacing the caps that blew up and see if he can bring the original board back to life
Now that the z-axis works again [[User:Daithi|daithi]] will try replacing the caps that blew up and see if he can bring the original board back to life


=== Update 11/09/2012 ===
==== Update 11/09/2012 ====


artag, jasperw and mentar took the arm apart to figure out the problem with the z-axis. Turns out it's not that bad, turns fine. The z-axis motor (24V) wasn't working because of the corrosion layer on the commutator, cleaning the brushes and rotating the motor axle cleaned off some of the corrosion and it works beautifully at 24v
artag, jasperw and mentar took the arm apart to figure out the problem with the z-axis. Turns out it's not that bad, turns fine. The z-axis motor (24V) wasn't working because of the corrosion layer on the commutator, cleaning the brushes and rotating the motor axle cleaned off some of the corrosion and it works beautifully at 24v


=== Update 29/08/2012 ===
==== Update 29/08/2012 ====
   
   
Tomw and tgreer tried to get this running but the z axis seems to be rusted to f***. The PSU outputs the correct voltages but when trying to put this into "green mode" it buzzes and sticks in red.
Tomw and tgreer tried to get this running but the z axis seems to be rusted to f***. The PSU outputs the correct voltages but when trying to put this into "green mode" it buzzes and sticks in red.