PCB etching instructions

Making PCBs @ LHS

Here's the overall process

<graphviz border='frame' format='svg' >

digraph rfboard{
  rankdir=TD;
  size="14,9!";

  cleaning [label="Copper board cleaning",shape=box,style=dashed];
  photoresist [label="Photo resist coat",shape=box,style=dashed];
  resist_cure [label="Photo resist curing",shape=box,style=dashed];

  breadboard [label="Breadboard",shape=box];
  board_layout [label="Board schematic",shape=box];
  uv_exposure [label="UV exposure",shape=box];   
  develop [label="Develop (Tank A)",shape=box];
  etch [label="Etch (Tank B)",shape=box];
  strip [label="Clean (IPA) ",shape=box];
  drill [label="Drill",shape=box];
  solder [label="Assemble and solder",shape=box];

  breadboard-> board_layout [label="Fritzing"];
  board_layout-> uv_exposure;
  cleaning->photoresist;
  resist_cure -> uv_exposure;
  photoresist->resist_cure;
  uv_exposure->develop;
  develop->etch [label="Spray wash"];
  etch->strip [label="Spray wash"];
  strip->drill [label="Spray wash, dry"];
  drill->solder;

} </graphviz>

Note : see Pcb for other references

Board Schematic

Plain paper works surprisingly well! The printers at the space do a good job.

If you use eagle, you can use the print option (as opposed to exporting an image). Print on normal paper first and check dimensions on some components.

Some people get better (resolution mostly) results with acetate, but this needs to be special laserable acetate. Do not use normal transparency! Melting a sheet onto a fuser is expensive!

UV Exposure

Use the UV Exposure Box to expose a photosensitve board.

Make sure your print is the right way round so that your board isn't back to front when it's etched!

5 minutes with acetate and something like 15 with paper. The uv board should look green with faint lighter green traces where your traces are.

PCB etching: Developer

Put the board in the developer (tank A), at the moment the heater for the developer is broken { note: is this still true ? } so it takes longer than the 30 seconds. What you need to look for is all the copper is exposed when you check it. Only the tracks should be coloured (green with the uv exposure board).

Note : the developer in tank A is from Mega Electronics, also sold through Rapid. It works well with photo pcb material from the same source. It does NOT work with Maplin photo material !

Etch

follow instructions on the notice, but the board is done when all the exposed copper is removed. The balance is removing too much copper and getting breaks in traces vs not enough and some small closely laid traces may have bridges.

Stripper

use the stripper for the specified time then scrub the black off and you should have nice copper traces! Use a multimeter to check for bridges.

Drilling

Some people have found drilling holes works best using the mill. Normal drill press probably not ideal (not immune enough to wandering!).

Test / Assembly

If you're doing a double sided board, you'll need to solder up your vias first (we have no through hole plating facilities). A bit of solid core wire works well for this.

See also

More info on the process, including photos of an SMT breakout board

Project:DIY_PCB_Making

Results people found with materials/compounds

Name	Date	PhotoResist source (Rapid photo resist spray/pre sentesized deluxe board?)	UV exposure stencil used (paper/acetate?)	Exposure time	Develop time	Etch time	Notes
mentar	3/4/2014	Farnell presentesized epoxy glass FR4 board	Plain paper	2	5	12	First run in the new space
Miguel	13/5/2014	white, single sided presentesized board (space stock)	Laserable acetate supplied and printed on by local printshop (£1.50)	3	1.5	8	Professionally printed acetate

Project:DIY_PCB_Making

For those wanting to get training

If you want more traning please add yourself to the list here and there'll be another workshop

Name
Liam Lynch
Rob Kam
Bradley Wood
Ian Lewis (Ianadan)
Jiri Richter
Nathan Spence
Colin Cooper
Matt Camp
Ertion Axha
Chris Roberts
Daniel Garrido
Owen Smith