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Billy Smith (talk | contribs) No edit summary |
Billy Smith (talk | contribs) No edit summary |
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If a part doesn't have a name attached, then it's one that we still need... | If a part doesn't have a name attached, then it's one that we still need... | ||
This parts list is partially copied from here, http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel#Bill_of_Materials with adaptations for the difference in the design used. Any references to | This parts list is partially copied from here, http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel#Bill_of_Materials with adaptations for the difference in the design used. Any references to the Build Manual are based on this document, http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_Build_Manual | ||
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<td></td> | <td></td> | ||
</tr> | </tr> | ||
<tr> | |||
<td>4</td> | |||
<td>M3×40 bolt</td> | |||
<td>Fastener</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>70</td> | |||
<td>M3 washer</td> | |||
<td>Fastener</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>40</td> | |||
<td>M3 nut</td> | |||
<td>Fastener</td> | |||
<td>8 optionally locknut / stop nut / nyloc</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>2</td> | |||
<td>M3 grub screw / set screw</td> | |||
<td>Fastener</td> | |||
<td>M3x8 seems about ideal but anything 6mm or longer should do. If these are hard to get, additional M3×10 bolts will do the job instead.</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>3</td> | |||
<td>608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing</td> | |||
<td>Bearings</td> | |||
<td>You don't need to ask for a "608 bearing" at a skate shop, just ask for wheel bearings. Some were bought, some were wombled.</td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>4</td> | |||
<td>ballpoint pen springs</td> | |||
<td>Spring</td> | |||
<td>To fit over M3 bolts. Ballpoint pens are a common, cheap source of suitable springs. They are about 25mm long and compress to about 10mm.</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>6</td> | |||
<td>M8×370mm</td> | |||
<td>Threaded rod </td> | |||
<td>3 per side. These rods form the side frames.</td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>4</td> | |||
<td>M8×294mm</td> | |||
<td>Threaded rod </td> | |||
<td>Front/rear connectors. These join the side frames together.</td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>3</td> | |||
<td>M8×440mm</td> | |||
<td>Threaded rod </td> | |||
<td>Top/bottom connectors. We've used a slightly different design. It'll be properly documented later.</td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>2</td> | |||
<td>M8×210mm</td> | |||
<td>Threaded rod </td> | |||
<td>Z-axis leadscrews</td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>1</td> | |||
<td>M8×50mm</td> | |||
<td>Threaded rod </td> | |||
<td>or M8x30 or longer bolt for X idler. Take care: if the bolt is too long, it may not be threaded along a sufficient length</td> | |||
<td></td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>2</td> | |||
<td>8mm×420mm</td> | |||
<td>Smooth rod</td> | |||
<td>X-axis structural support, as well as slides. See note below for the grades of steel necessary. </td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>2</td> | |||
<td>8mm×406mm</td> | |||
<td>Smooth rod</td> | |||
<td>Y-axis structural support, as well as slides. See note below for the grades of steel necessary. This is from the original Prusa design. We've used angle iron and desk-drawer slides. Testing and comparison of the design will be needed. Womblish solution...:)) They've been provided anyway, in case this solution doesn't work well. It'll work as a Repstrap though. </td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
<tr> | |||
<td>2</td> | |||
<td>8mm×420mm</td> | |||
<td>Smooth rod</td> | |||
<td>X-axis structural support, as well as slides. See note below for the grades of steel necessary. </td> | |||
<td>Billy</td> | |||
</tr> | |||
</table> | |||
Note: 304 Stainless Steel, A2 Tool Steel, or O1 Tool Steel are recommended for smooth rods as it can help to prevent friction from rust and manufacturing (straightness) standards are higher. Rust issues can be prevented on the normal steel rods by maintaining a coat of oil. The smooth rods can also be cut from larger 3x1m pieces (see Smooth Rod Cut Order below). | Note: 304 Stainless Steel, A2 Tool Steel, or O1 Tool Steel are recommended for smooth rods as it can help to prevent friction from rust and manufacturing (straightness) standards are higher. Rust issues can be prevented on the normal steel rods by maintaining a coat of oil. The smooth rods can also be cut from larger 3x1m pieces (see Smooth Rod Cut Order below). |